The Atlantic escape Moroccans keep for themselves — fresh grilled sardines, ramparts at sunset, and the best kitesurfing in Africa.
Three hours west of Marrakech, Essaouira is what happens when a fortified 18th-century port becomes a surf town and never quite changes its mind. Portuguese ramparts, Gnawa drummers in the main square, seagulls the size of dogs, and the best grilled sardines you'll ever eat.
What to actually do here
- Walk the Skala ramparts at golden hour — all of Orson Welles's Othello was filmed here
- Eat at the harbor grills — point at a fish, they cook it in front of you
- Kitesurf at Moulay Bouzerktoun (20 min north) — world-class wind
- Take a Gnawa music lesson — the June festival is world-famous
Best time to go
The Alizés wind blows nine months of the year, which is heaven for kitesurfers and brutal for sunbathers. September–October and April–May are the sweet spots: warm, less windy, everything open.
Where to stay
Inside the medina: small riads, close to the action, some wind noise. Outside the ramparts: the Mogador beachfront, quieter and better for families.
“Essaouira is where Moroccans come to breathe. Do the same thing.”
If you're on a 7-day loop, add Essaouira as a day trip from Marrakech. On a 10-day trip, give it two nights — you won't regret the slow morning on the beach.
Written by
Amina Benkirane
Destination Editor
Writer and photographer covering the Maghreb. Ten years of wandering souks, kasbahs, and back roads most guidebooks miss.
